Seasoning by taste

90 min

Listen: this lesson as a conversation

Two hosts talk the lesson through. The voices are synthetic; the script was written from this lesson and checked against it, and asserts nothing the lesson does not.

In this lesson you will learn to
  • Explain what salt does to the flavour of food, and why a teaspoon of one salt isn't a teaspoon of another, and season by weight or by taste accordingly
  • Diagnose a dish that tastes flat, cloying or thin, and apply salt, acid, fat or a glutamate-rich ingredient to fix it, saying which problem each one addresses
  • Identify glutamate-rich ingredients from several cuisines, and state what the double-blind evidence shows about MSG, where it is settled and where it is still argued
  • Season a dish in stages by tasting, and store garlic in oil in a way that can't grow botulism, under US and UK guidance

Taste a spoonful of plain tomato and then the same tomato with a few grains of salt on it. The second one tastes more of tomato, not more of salt. Samin Nosrat, whose book Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat is built on that kind of observation, explained it on NPR's Fresh Air: once salt goes on a slice of tomato, "some of the juices start to come out, you know? Osmosis starts." The aromatic compounds are in those watery cells, she said, so "they come to the top. They're more available for you to breathe in."1

That is what seasoning is for. It isn't adding a flavour on top of the food. It's getting more of the food's own flavour to you, and then balancing it so that no one taste shouts over the rest. This lesson teaches how to do that by tasting: what salt does and why the amount in a recipe is a guess about your salt, what acid, fat and savoury ingredients each fix, what the evidence actually says about MSG, and how to season in stages rather than all at the end. It closes with the one seasoning job that can make someone seriously ill, which is keeping garlic in oil.

Salt, and why a teaspoon isn't a measurement

Nosrat's book organises cooking around four things, and its publisher's description calls them "the four cardinal directions of cooking".2 Salt is the one she tastes for first. "Salt is the first thing I sort of just instinctively taste for," she told NPR's Sam Briger.1

Her tomato shows the two things salt does. It draws water out of cut surfaces, bringing flavour with it, and it changes how the other tastes in the food come across. In her words, "the salt really balances the acid in the tomato and the sweetness in the tomato and just makes it more tomato-y (ph)."1 (The "(ph)" is NPR's transcript flagging a spelling it wasn't sure of.) That is why an under-salted dish doesn't taste of too little salt. It tastes of too little of everything. And it isn't only tomatoes: Nosrat says the same is "certainly" true of every vegetable.1

Salts differ, spoon for spoon

A recipe that says "1 teaspoon salt" has a problem built in. Nosrat put it this way: "all salts are not created equal. So if I am using Diamond Crystal at home and I say one teaspoon but you have, you know, just a box of iodized table salt, what you use will almost be equivalent to twice as much."1 Diamond Crystal is a kosher salt she calls "really the least salty of all the salts" by the spoonful.1

The reason, which the interview doesn't spell out, is that a teaspoon measures volume and your tongue measures salt. Big, flaky or hollow crystals leave air between them, so a spoonful holds less salt than a spoonful of fine grains. That is this course's explanation, and the first exercise at the end has you test it with a scale.

Nosrat's own conclusion is the practical one: "be familiar with your own salt and to really taste as you go so you start to learn what one pinch or one spoonful will do to a pot of food."1 She also says where it matters most. A spoonful spread through a big pot of liquid forgives a lot. A spoonful in a batch of biscuits, where you can't taste and correct, doesn't: "if you're making chocolate chip cookies and you use twice as much salt, it could be bad news."1 When you can't taste as you go, weigh. When you can, a recipe's salt is a starting point.

Predict first

You weigh a level teaspoon of fine table salt and a level teaspoon of a coarse flaky salt on the same scale. Before you do, which will be heavier, and roughly by how much?

Show the answer

The fine table salt, because its small grains pack tightly into the spoon with little air between them. How much heavier depends on the flaky salt: Nosrat's comparison was close to double for her particular kosher salt, and a different coarse salt could be nearer or further. That is why the exercise asks you to weigh your own rather than learn a number.

This course makes no claim about how much salt is healthy. Nutrition: The Evidence covers salt and blood pressure in its lesson 7, "Salt and sugar", and this lesson is only about making food taste right.

Acid, fat and savoury: three more ways to fix a dish

Salt is the first thing to check, and it isn't the only fix. This course sorts the common problems into three, as a working tool rather than anything a source defines: food that tastes flat, food that tastes cloying or heavy, and food that tastes thin. Each has a usual remedy, and the skill is telling them apart.

Acid, for contrast

Nosrat explains acid with lemonade, which is "just made of sugar, water and lemons." Something too sugary is "kind of cloying in your throat. So you need to increase that acid to create that tart contrast."1 Her definition is broad and useful: "Anything tart is acid", which takes in lemon, lime, vinegar, a splash of wine, and tart dairy like yogurt or feta.1

Her example is sweetness. Cooks use the same contrast against richness, which is this course's extension of her point, and your practice cup of broth will test it. A rich stew that tastes fine for one spoonful and heavy by the fourth, a sweet vegetable soup that seems to have no edges, a bowl of beans that tastes of beans and nothing else: each of these may be salted correctly and still want acid.

She also said that acid is the element her students find most surprising, and that many cuisines put it on the table rather than in the pot: in Mexico, "all of those salsas and cremas and cheeses and guacamole", or "a wedge of lime that comes with your fish taco"; in her Iranian family, "a sour orange over almost everything or lime", and yogurt at every meal.1 A squeeze at the table is seasoning too.

Acid does a second job in the kitchen, and a myth sits on it. Cut an avocado and its flesh browns, because an enzyme in the fruit, polyphenol oxidase, reacts with oxygen where the cells are damaged.7 The avocado pit, left in a bowl of guacamole, is supposed to stop it. Karen Schaich, a food scientist at Rutgers, told Inverse that it does not: "There was nothing in the pit that I knew of that should have inhibited the enzyme, so it had to be the oxygen."7 The pit keeps air off the patch it sits on and nothing else. What works is keeping air off the whole surface, with plastic pressed onto it or a thin layer of water or lime juice poured on top, and the citrus helps twice, because acid deactivates the enzyme.7

Fat, for texture and for carrying flavour

Nosrat's line on fat is plain: "while salt is all about enhancing flavor, fat is mostly about texture. But it's also this amazing sort of transporter of flavor. It's a carrier."1

Her demonstration is worth doing once, and the practice at the end includes a small version of it. Put a peeled garlic clove to simmer in a little water in one small pan, and another to sizzle in olive oil in a second. Take the cloves out and taste each liquid. The water, she says, "it'll probably taste pretty much just like water. But if you taste the oil, it'll taste like this amazing perfume."1 Her point is that fat does this for many of the aromas in cooking: "it distributes flavor."1 That is why so many dishes start with the aromatics cooked in oil or butter: she describes putting the onions, and any bay leaf or coriander seed, into the fat at the beginning "so it can sort of work its way into that oil and then penetrate your dish fully."1

So fat fixes two different things. A dish can taste thin because it lacks body in the mouth, which a spoon of butter or a swirl of good oil addresses. And a dish can taste as though its spices haven't arrived, which on this course's reading of her point is often a sign they never met any fat. Fat also brings its own flavour. Nosrat's rule for cooking another country's food: "to make the thing taste of the place, start with the fat of the place."1

Keep the garlic oil in mind. It's the subject of the last section of this lesson, for a reason that has nothing to do with taste.

Savoury, and where it comes from

The other kind of thinness is a lack of savouriness, the quality that makes a broth taste like more than salted water. That taste has a name, umami, and a molecule behind it.

In 1908, as the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) tells it in its questions and answers on MSG, "a Japanese professor named Kikunae Ikeda was able to extract glutamate from this broth and determined that glutamate provided the savory taste to the soup." The broth was "a glutamate-rich seaweed broth". Ikeda patented a way to produce monosodium glutamate, MSG, and commercial production began the next year.4 MSG is the sodium salt of glutamic acid, one of the commonest amino acids in nature.34

What makes glutamate useful to a cook is that it exists in two forms. Most of it is bound into protein, and some is free. Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ), in a safety assessment published in 2003, says glutamate "in its free form has been shown to have a flavour enhancing effect".3 So the total amount of glutamate in a food tells you little about how savoury it tastes. The free amount is what counts, and the FSANZ report has a table of it. In words, it names "tomatoes, mushrooms, peas and certain cheeses" as foods where free glutamate runs relatively high.3

Check yourself

FSANZ's Table 1 gives beef about 2,850 mg of bound glutamate per 100 g and 33 mg free, and tomatoes about 240 mg bound and 140 mg free. Weight for weight, which adds more savouriness to a thin sauce, and why is the total the wrong figure to compare?

Show the answer

Tomatoes. The free figure is the one that predicts taste, and theirs is about four times beef's, even though beef carries more than seven times as much glutamate in total (about 2,880 mg against 380). The bound glutamate is locked in protein. FSANZ makes the general point: protein-rich foods like cheese and meat carry "large amounts of bound glutamate", while vegetables, "despite their lower protein contents", tend to carry proportionally more free glutamate, "especially peas, tomatoes, and potatoes".

Look at the chart below, drawn from FSANZ's two tables of free glutamate. The top six are seasonings and a cheese, each from a different kitchen tradition: a British yeast extract, Korean and Japanese soy sauces, an Italian cheese, a Thai fish sauce and a Chinese oyster sauce. The bottom six are ordinary foods.

Free glutamate in seasonings and foods, milligrams per 100 grams Horizontal bars. Seasonings: Marmite 1960, Korean soy sauce 1264, Parmesan 1200, Thai fish sauce (nam pla) 950, oyster sauce 900, Japanese soy sauce 782. Foods: peas 200, potato 180, tomatoes 140, chicken 44, beef 33, cow's milk 2. All figures from FSANZ 2003, Tables 1 and 2. Free glutamate, mg per 100 g Marmite 1,960 Soy sauce, Korea 1,264 Parmesan 1,200 Fish sauce (nam pla) 950 Oyster sauce 900 Soy sauce, Japan 782 Peas 200 Potato 180 Tomatoes 140 Chicken 44 Beef 33 Cow's milk 2 Bars to one scale. Source: FSANZ 2003, Tables 1 and 2.

Figures from FSANZ's Monosodium Glutamate: A Safety Assessment (2003), which takes Table 1 from Yamaguchi and Ninomiya (1998) and Table 2 from Nicholas and Jones (1991) and Yoshida (1998).3 The seasonings are above the dashed line and the foods below it. The chart compares equal weights, and you don't use equal weights: a teaspoon of fish sauce against a whole tomato is a closer picture of a real pan.

Two things follow from the chart. First, the savoury ingredients cooks reach for all over the world are the ones at the top, and they turn up in very different dishes: soy sauce in a Japanese simmered dish, fish sauce with lime and sugar in a Thai dressing, Parmesan grated over an Italian pasta. Nobody needed the chemistry to find them. Second, most of the top six are salty as well as savoury. That is worth remembering when a dish is already salted: a splash of soy sauce or fish sauce adds salt with its glutamate.

MSG: what the tests found

MSG is the same savoury taste in a jar. The FDA says the glutamate in food protein, once digested, is "chemically the same as the glutamate in MSG", and puts an average adult's intake at about 13 g of glutamate a day from protein against about 0.55 g from added MSG.4 Many people avoid it because they believe it makes them ill, and the FDA says it has received reports of symptoms "such as headache and nausea" over the years.4 So it's worth knowing where that belief came from and what happened when it was tested.

Where the name came from

In April 1968 Robert Ho Man Kwok, a doctor in Maryland, wrote a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine describing a racing heart, weakness and numbness after meals at restaurants serving Northern Chinese food. According to the science writer Sam Kean, he offered three possible culprits: "salt, cooking wine, or perhaps MSG." A month later the journal printed ten replies from other doctors, and Kean notes that "no two letter writers listed the same symptoms."6 Newspapers ran stories about "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome", and a string of small experiments followed, which Kean judges badly controlled. One injected mice with doses of "up to 7 milligrams per gram of body weight", which the study's critics at the time, as Kean reports them, put at about 700 times what a typical American ate in a day.6

The name tied a set of symptoms to one cuisine before anyone had shown what caused them. Kean points out that MSG had been in American canned soups and TV dinners for decades without complaint, and argues that "Only when MSG was linked to Chinese cuisine did Americans panic." He describes a moment when "a “foreign” chemical like MSG became an easy target."6 Kean's article is an argued history, written with open scorn for the scare ("hysteria" is his word), and his explanation of the symptoms, that people react because they expect to, is his argument and not something the trials below tested. This course uses him for the sequence of events.

The double-blind trials

The fair way to test a food reaction is to give people the substance and a placebo, in a form they can't tell apart, without either them or the researchers knowing which is which, and to repeat it. Nutrition: The Evidence's first lesson explained why that design can answer a question an observational study can't.

Predict first

In a trial its authors called the largest to date when it was published, 130 people who believed they reacted to MSG were each given 5 g of MSG on one day and a placebo on another, both without food. What share do you expect reacted to MSG and not to the placebo?

Show the answer

About 38.5%: 50 people. Another 13.1% (17 people) reacted to the placebo only, and 14.6% (19) reacted to both. So on a first test, MSG without food did produce more reported symptoms than placebo in this group.5 The rest of the trial is about whether that held up.

The trial was led by Raif Geha and published in 2000. A positive response meant reporting two or more symptoms from a list of ten within two hours. The researchers then retested people, and three things happened.5

  • Bigger doses gave more responses. "Challenge with increasing doses of MSG in protocol B was associated with increased response rates." That is the strongest finding for people who report reactions, and it is in the abstract in those words.
  • The responses didn't repeat reliably. "Only half (n = 19) of 37 subjects who reacted to 5 g of MSG but not placebo in protocol A reacted similarly in protocol B". When the most consistent reactors were tested again, two responded to MSG and not placebo, but "their symptoms were not reproducible".
  • With food, the effect wasn't seen. Those two were challenged three times with MSG and three times with placebo, this time with food, and each responded to only one of the MSG challenges. The authors' companion summary says, "The responses were not observed when MSG was given with food."

Their conclusion keeps both halves: large doses without food "may elicit more symptoms than a placebo in individuals who believe that they react adversely to MSG. However, neither persistent nor serious effects from MSG ingestion are observed, and the responses were not consistent on retesting."5

The two regulators read for this course land in the same place. The FDA considers adding MSG to food "generally recognized as safe", and reports that a scientific review it commissioned in the 1990s found "some short-term, transient, and generally mild symptoms, such as headache, numbness, flushing, tingling, palpitations, and drowsiness that may occur in some sensitive individuals who consume 3 grams or more of MSG without food." A typical serving of food with added MSG, it says, contains less than 0.5 g.4 FSANZ concluded that "There is no convincing evidence that MSG is a significant factor in causing systemic reactions resulting in severe illness or mortality", and in the same paragraph that "Symptoms resembling those of CRS may be provoked in a clinical setting in small numbers of individuals by the administration of large doses of MSG without food." (CRS is the report's abbreviation for Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.)3

So this is how to classify it. That MSG in ordinary food makes people ill, as a general claim, is not supported: it failed the tests designed to catch it. Whether a few people have a small, short-lived reaction to large doses on an empty stomach is still open at the margin, and FSANZ names the question the evidence hasn't answered: "what effect consumption with food would have on the incidence and severity of symptoms."3

None of this means people who feel unwell after a meal are imagining it. FSANZ's point is that most reports aren't linked to how much glutamate the food actually contained, that "some other food component may be the cause", and that anyone who suspects a sensitivity should "undergo appropriate clinical testing."3 The symptoms can be real while the explanation is wrong.

For a cook, MSG is one more savoury ingredient, like a spoon of soy sauce without the colour. FSANZ gives its most pleasant concentration as "between 0.2 – 0.8%" of the food and notes that "its use tends to be self-limiting as over-use decreases palatability."3 Too much tastes bad, in other words, which is true of salt as well.

A pot of dal, seasoned in four stages

Put the pieces together in a pot of red lentil dal. The recipe is this course's own, built to show the stages, and it makes no claim about how dal is made in any particular kitchen: red lentils simmered in water until soft, with onion, garlic and ginger, a little turmeric, and spices finished in hot fat.

Stage 1, the start. Salt goes in with the lentils and water, but only part of what you expect to use, perhaps half. The lentils will absorb water and the pot will reduce as it cooks, and salt doesn't boil off with the water (plain chemistry, not something a source here measured), so what tastes right now will taste saltier in half an hour. You can always add salt. You can't take it out.

Stage 2, when the lentils are soft. Taste. It probably tastes flat, of lentil and not much else. Add salt in pinches, stirring and tasting between them, until the lentil flavour comes forward. Stop when one more pinch would make you notice salt itself.

Stage 3, the fat. In a small pan, heat a couple of spoons of oil or ghee and let whole cumin seeds sizzle for a few seconds, then add a little garlic, and pour the lot, fat and all, over the dal. Taste again. If Nosrat's garlic demonstration carries over, and this is the course's extension of it rather than her claim, the cumin and garlic you just added will come through far more strongly than anything that has sat in the water all along, because they arrived in fat.1

Stage 4, the acid. Taste one spoonful, then another. If by the second it tastes a bit heavy, squeeze in some lemon or lime, a little at a time, tasting between squeezes. You're looking for the moment the dal tastes brighter without tasting sour.

Four tastes, and a different question each time. That is what "season as you go" means in practice, and it is the habit Nosrat describes as learning "what one pinch or one spoonful will do to a pot of food."1

Check yourself

At stage 2 you added salt until the dal tasted right. You then leave it on a low simmer for another 20 minutes while you cook rice. What should you do before serving, and why?

Show the answer

Taste it again. Twenty more minutes of simmering drives off more water, and the salt stays behind, so the dal is now saltier than it was when it tasted right. If it is too salty, a splash of water brings it back; if it is also thickened more than you want, that same water fixes both. This is why the salt in stage 1 was only part of the total.

A soup that is salted and still wrong

Now the harder case. You have made a sweetcorn soup with onion and a little cream, and seasoned it with salt until it is clearly salty enough. It still tastes flat, or rather, it tastes sweet and soft and seems to have no edges.

The reflex is more salt, and it makes things worse, because the soup's problem was never salt. Run through the other three. Sweet and rich with no edges is Nosrat's lemonade: it wants contrast, so acid comes first. A squeeze of lime, stirred in and tasted, may be all it needs. Suppose it is brighter now but still seems thin, like a sweet drink rather than a soup. Then the missing thing is savouriness or body. Corn has some free glutamate of its own (130 mg per 100 g in FSANZ's table[3]), but a spoonful of a savoury seasoning adds more. The catch is that the soup is already salted, and fish sauce, soy sauce and Parmesan all bring salt with them. So add the savoury ingredient in a small amount and taste, and if you know you'll be finishing with one, hold back on the salt earlier.

The same thinking runs through dishes from very different places. A Thai-style dressing of fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chilli is salt, savouriness, acid and sweetness balanced against each other in a spoon. A Mexican salsa is tomato and chilli sharpened with lime. Parmesan and lemon over Italian pasta do the savoury and the acid jobs together. None of these is the proper way to season; they're the same four questions answered in different kitchens.

Predict first

A recipe for a tomato and chickpea stew says "season with 1 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons soy sauce." You have no soy sauce, so you leave it out and add the teaspoon of salt. Before you taste, what will be missing, and what would you add instead?

Show the answer

Both savouriness and some of the salt. The soy sauce was doing two jobs, and the teaspoon only covers the one it was already doing. Taste, then add salt in pinches, and for the savoury depth reach for another glutamate-rich ingredient you have: a spoon of tomato purée, grated Parmesan, a little yeast extract, or fish sauce if the dish suits it. Most of these carry salt too, so add a little and taste.

Garlic in oil

Once you have tasted garlic oil, it is tempting to make a jar and keep it. Don't. This is the one place in this lesson where getting it wrong can put someone in hospital.

The danger is botulism, a rare but serious illness caused by a toxin made by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum. The UK's Food Standards Agency (FSA) explains that these bacteria "can also develop spores which are not killed by cooking".10 A University of Georgia Cooperative Extension circular explains why garlic in oil suits them. Oil keeps air out, garlic is a low-acid food, and "Spores of C. botulinum may already be present in garlic and herbs, and when introduced to an ideal environment—no oxygen, low acid content, and ambient temperatures—they can germinate, multiply, and produce a deadly neurotoxin."9

Put the two sources together. Cooking the garlic in the oil does not remove the spores. Oil keeps the oxygen out whether it is hot or cold. The only thing on the list you control at home is the temperature, and that is where the rules come in.

The US says: the National Center for Home Food Preservation, whose researchers confirmed "that mixtures of garlic in oil stored at room temperature are at risk for the development of botulism", says garlic in oil "should be made fresh and stored in the refrigerator at 40°F or lower for no more than 4 days. It may be frozen for long term storage for up to several months."8 The Georgia circular applies the same four days even to oil heated to 180°F before the garlic goes in.9

The UK says: the FSA's page on botulism says that canning and bottling products "such as herbs or garlic in oil can be risky as it is difficult to achieve the level of control needed to destroy or prevent growth of C. botulinum spores at home", and lists "foods preserved in oil" among the foods associated with botulism.10 The FSA page read for this course gives no day limit for homemade garlic oil. Its general advice is to keep chilled food below 5°C.10 Keeping to the US four days in a UK fridge fits inside that advice. That is this course's suggestion, not an FSA rule.

There is a tested way to acidify garlic before it goes into oil, which the Georgia circular sets out, and it is specific: it uses citric acid at a fixed ratio, and warns, "Do not replace the citric acid solution with vinegar or lemon juice, as they have not been tested and may result in an unsafe final product."9 If you want a room-temperature infused oil, follow that circular exactly or don't make one. A squeeze of lemon in a jar of garlic oil isn't a version of it.

Tasting is how you season, but it tells you nothing about this. The same FSA page, explaining why use-by dates matter, puts it plainly: "you can’t smell or taste bacteria which could make you ill".10 Lesson 4 is about that difference between how food tastes and whether it is safe.

What people get wrong about seasoning

"Salt just makes food taste salty." Used right, it makes food taste more of itself. Nosrat's tomato is the demonstration: salt draws out the juices and balances the acid and the sweetness.1 Salt you can taste as salt is past that point.

"A recipe's salt is a measurement." It is a measurement of the writer's salt. By volume, one salt can be nearly twice as salty as another.1 Taste as you go, or weigh when you can't.

"Season once, at the end." Then you have given up every chance to correct along the way, and a dish that reduced after it was first salted will have grown saltier without your noticing. Season in stages, and taste each time.

"MSG makes people ill." As a general claim, it failed the double-blind tests. The most the evidence allows is a small, inconsistent effect from large doses taken without food, which wasn't seen when MSG was given with food.345 The mirror claim, that people who report reactions are imagining them, goes further than the trials too: bigger doses gave more responses, and FSANZ's advice to someone who suspects a sensitivity is clinical testing, not dismissal.35

"If it tastes flat, add salt." Only if it is under-salted. A dish that is salted and still flat usually wants acid, and one that is salted and thin wants fat or something savoury.

"The avocado pit keeps guacamole green." It protects the patch it covers from air, and nothing more. Cover the whole surface, or add lime.7

"Garlic oil is safe once the garlic's been cooked." Botulism spores survive cooking, and heating the oil does not change what happens in the jar afterwards. Fridge, no more than 4 days (US guidance), or the freezer.8910

Practice

Weigh, split and fix

Allow 20 minutes for steps 2 to 4, and a few more for the weighing. You'll need your kitchen scale, a teaspoon, some plain stock or broth (a carton marked low-salt, or a stock cube made up with more water than the packet says, since cubes are usually salted), three cups, and a lemon or lime, a little butter or oil, and one savoury seasoning from the chart (soy sauce, fish sauce, Parmesan or yeast extract).

  1. Weigh your salt. Put a small bowl on the scale and zero it. Add one level teaspoon of the salt you cook with (heaped, then scraped flat with the back of a knife) and write down the weight. Do it twice more and take the middle figure. If you have a second salt in the house, weigh a level teaspoon of that too, and work out how many teaspoons of one match one of the other.

  2. Salt a broth. Warm about 500 ml of unsalted or lightly salted broth. Add salt in pinches, tasting after each, until it tastes of broth rather than of water, and stop before it tastes of salt. Write down roughly how much you added.

  3. Split and fix. Divide the broth between three cups. Into the first, squeeze a little lemon or lime. Into the second, stir a small knob of butter, or a spoon of oil in which you have sizzled a little garlic, minced with the claw from lesson 1. Into the third, add a few drops of your savoury seasoning. Taste all three, side by side, and taste the plain broth again for comparison.

  4. Write it down. For each cup, one line: what changed, and what problem it would fix in a real dish (flat, cloying or heavy, or thin). Then say which you'd use, and whether any of the three made the broth taste saltier.

  5. Put the garlic oil away properly. If any garlic oil is left over, it goes in the fridge, labelled with today's date, and out by the fourth day, or in the freezer.

Connections

Lesson 1 had you cut evenly so that pieces cook at one rate, and the practice here had you mince garlic with the claw. Lesson 2 gave you water's ceiling, and salt's first job, drawing water out of food, is about water as well. Lesson 6 turns that into the question of when to salt meat, because the water salt draws to the surface is water that has to go before anything browns.

Lesson 4 comes next, and it takes the idea under the garlic oil, that time, temperature and conditions decide what grows in food, to the whole kitchen. Nutrition: The Evidence's lesson 7 is where salt and health are treated. Lesson 10 comes back to glutamate in stocks and sauces, and every lesson that cooks a dish after this one ends with you tasting it.

Go deeper

  • Samin Nosrat on Fresh Air, NPR, 2018. Read in full for this course. About twenty minutes of reading, and the clearest short account of salt, fat and acid by the cook who built a book on them. Her book, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat (2017), is the natural next step; this course has read only its catalogued contents and publisher's description, so it can tell you the book spends four chapters on principle before any recipes, and nothing about what those chapters say.
  • FSANZ, Monosodium Glutamate: A Safety Assessment (2003). Read in full for this course. Ten pages, with the free-glutamate tables and a plain summary of the human studies up to 2003.
  • Sam Kean, "The Rotten Science Behind the MSG Scare", Science History Institute, 2023. Read in full here. A lively argued history of the 1968 letter and the experiments that followed. Read it as one writer's case, with the trials above as the evidence.
  • University of Georgia Extension, "How to Safely Make Infused Oils" (2024). Read in full here. The tested method for acidified garlic and herb oils, if you want a jar you can keep, with every ratio it says not to change.

Sources

  1. Samin Nosrat, interviewed by Sam Briger, Fresh Air, NPR, transcript at https://www.npr.org/transcripts/672904397 (companion article dated 3 December 2018) . Read level: full, directly, reread on 2026-09-24. Supports: the tomato and osmosis; salt as what she tastes for first; Diamond Crystal against table salt, "almost be equivalent to twice as much"; the cookie example; "taste as you go"; fat as texture and "carrier"; the garlic in water and oil; aromatics in fat at the start; "the fat of the place"; acid, lemonade and "tart contrast"; "Anything tart is acid"; Mexican and Iranian examples. The widely repeated line that salt has a greater impact on flavour than any other ingredient is the interviewer's summary in this transcript, not her words, so this lesson doesn't use it.
  2. Samin Nosrat, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking (Simon & Schuster, 2017), catalogue record and publisher's description (Internet Archive; University of Wisconsin–Madison Libraries) . Read level: catalogued contents and publisher's description only. Supports: the title, the four elements and "the four cardinal directions of cooking". Nothing else in this lesson is attributed to the book.
  3. Food Standards Australia New Zealand, Monosodium Glutamate: A Safety Assessment, Technical Report Series No. 20, June 2003, https://www.foodstandards.gov.au/sites/default/files/consumer/additives/msg/Documents/MSG%20Technical%20Report.pdf . Read level: full, directly. Supports: free and bound glutamate and the flavour-enhancing effect of the free form; Tables 1 and 2 (the chart and the sweetcorn, beef and tomato figures); vegetables' proportionally higher free glutamate; the 0.2 to 0.8% palatability range and self-limiting use; the conclusion; the unanswered question about MSG with food; other food components and clinical testing.
  4. US Food and Drug Administration, "Questions and Answers on Monosodium glutamate (MSG)", content current as of 17 July 2026, https://www.fda.gov/food/food-additives-petitions/questions-and-answers-monosodium-glutamate-msg . Read level: full, directly, on recheck. Supports: Ikeda, 1908 and the seaweed broth; the patent and production; MSG as the sodium salt of glutamic acid; digested glutamate "chemically the same"; 13 g against 0.55 g a day; GRAS; the FASEB review's symptoms at 3 g or more without food; under 0.5 g in a typical serving.
  5. Raif S. Geha, Alan Beiser, Clement Ren and colleagues, "Multicenter, double-blind, placebo-controlled, multiple-challenge evaluation of reported reactions to monosodium glutamate", Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology 106(5), 2000, 973–980, PMID 11080723; and the same authors, "Review of alleged reaction to monosodium glutamate and outcome of a multicenter double-blind placebo-controlled study", Journal of Nutrition 130(4S Suppl), 2000, 1058S–1062S, PMID 10736382 . Read level: both abstracts, in full. Supports: 130 subjects, 5 g without food, the response definition, 38.5%, 13.1% and 14.6%, the dose-response finding, 19 of 37, the two subjects and the challenges with food, and the quoted conclusions. The full papers were not read, so this lesson gives nothing about the trial beyond the abstracts.
  6. Sam Kean, "The Rotten Science Behind the MSG Scare", Distillations, Science History Institute, 2 March 2023, https://www.sciencehistory.org/stories/magazine/the-rotten-science-behind-the-msg-scare/ . Read level: full, directly, on recheck. Supports: Kwok's letter, its date and his three suspects; the ten replies and "no two letter writers"; the injected mouse doses; MSG in canned soups and TV dinners; the quoted passages on the name. Kwok's letter itself was not read (the journal's page was blocked), so everything about it here is Kean's account.
  7. Elana Spivack, "Do avocado pits keep guacamole fresh? A food scientist chips away at the myth", Inverse, 12 February 2022, https://www.inverse.com/science/do-avocado-pits-keep-your-guac-fresh . Read level: full, directly, on recheck. Supports: polyphenol oxidase and oxygen; the quoted Schaich line; the pit protecting only the patch it covers; plastic wrap, a water or lime layer, and acid deactivating the enzyme.
  8. National Center for Home Food Preservation, "Freezing Garlic-In-Oil", https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/freeze/vegetable/freezing-garlic-in-oil/ , citing Nummer, Schaffner, Fraser and Andress, Food Protection Trends 31(6), 2011 . Read level: full, directly. Supports: the room-temperature risk; fresh, refrigerated at 40°F or lower for no more than 4 days, or frozen. The cited paper was not read.
  9. Carla Luisa Schwan, "How to Safely Make Infused Oils: Best Practices for Food Safety", University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Circular 1334, 17 December 2024, https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/publications/C1334/how-to-safely-make-infused-oils/ . Read level: full, directly. Supports: oil as an anaerobic environment, garlic as low-acid, the quoted spore passage; oil heated to 180°F still refrigerated and discarded at 4 days, or frozen; dried garlic not a safe route; the tested citric acid method and its warning against vinegar or lemon juice.
  10. Food Standards Agency, "Botulism (Clostridium botulinum)", GOV.UK, first published 25 June 2026, https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/botulism-clostridium-botulinum/botulism-clostridium-botulinum . Read level: full, directly. Supports: spores not killed by cooking; herbs or garlic in oil "can be risky"; foods preserved in oil among the foods associated with botulism; chilling below 5°C; "you can’t smell or taste bacteria". The page gives no day limit for homemade garlic oil.

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